The Baralacha La section of the Manali-Leh highway — a high-altitude pass surrounded by glaciers on three sides, the road crossing the pass summit before descending through a switchback visible from the top as a grey thread 800m below. Nothing about this drive is routine. Every 30 minutes of the Manali-Leh highway produces a landscape that would be the centrepiece of any other Indian destination. The Manali-Leh highway (NH3, 479km, open June-October) crosses 5 passes all above 4,900m — Rohtang (3,978m, the first pass, often congested), Baralacha La (4,890m), Nakee La (4,739m), Lachung La (5,079m), and Tanglang La (5,328m, the second-highest pass on the route). The overnight stop at Sarchu (4,253m) or Jispa (3,200m) is mandatory. The Morey Plains (a high-altitude plateau at 4,700m, 40km long — wild kiang, marmots, and the specific emptiness of a plateau at 4,700m) are the most unexpected landscape.